Written by La Dolce Vigna’s very own Elisa Pantano, sommelier and tour leader
This winter has turned many Italians into enthusiastic experts in Olympic disciplines: downhill skiing, curling, figure skating… you name it. With the Winter Games shining a global spotlight on the Alps, winter sports have become a national obsession — discussed over coffee, debated at dinner tables, and passionately followed on television.
But Italy’s love affair with the mountains didn’t begin with the Olympics. As early as the economic boom of the 1960s, Italians started flocking to alpine resorts during the coldest months of the year, giving birth to what we call the Settimana Bianca — literally, the “White Week.” Part winter break, part social ritual, it’s a cherished tradition: families and friends rent a cozy chalet or check into a mountain hotel and spend their days skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, or simply soaking in the crisp alpine air.
And because this is Italy, no vacation is complete without indulgence. Afternoons mean lingering in a warm rifugio — a high-altitude mountain hut — savoring hearty local dishes, raising a glass of something strong, and embracing the delicious pleasure of resting after a day in the snow.
Below is a list of the best places to ski in Italy as well as a list of top body-and-soul-warming Alpine drinks to sip on in front of a roaring fire.
Ski Runs in the Dolomites
La Gran Risa – A Legendary Run in the Heart of the Dolomites
One of Italy’s most iconic ski runs, La Gran Risa, sits above the charming village of La Villa in the Alta Badia ski area, part of the vast Dolomiti Superski region in the Italian Dolomites. It’s not just a beautiful piste — it’s definitely ski racing history. Every December, this steep, winding giant slalom course hosts a stop on the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup, drawing the world’s best racers and fans from around the globe.
The run itself is a thrilling challenge: about 1,225 meters (roughly 4,000 ft) of descent with a vertical drop of around 448 meters, through pine forests and dramatic terrain that keeps the slope shaded and often firm all day. With gradients that can exceed 60 %, La Gran Risa demands confidence and skill — it’s a black run for advanced skiers who love an adrenaline rush.
Access is easy via the Piz La Ila cable car from La Villa, and once you’re at the top, the iconic course unfolds right beneath you.
Saslong – Speed and Scenery in Val Gardena
Few ski runs in Italy combine technical challenge and cinematic beauty like Saslong, the iconic downhill course above Val Gardena, in the heart of the Dolomiti. Stretching over 3.4 kilometers (about 2.1 miles) with a vertical drop of roughly 839 meters, this celebrated black run is long, fast, and wonderfully varied.
Wide, flowing sections alternate with steeper pitches and rolling terrain, offering advanced skiers both rhythm and adrenaline. What makes Saslong truly memorable, however, is its setting: dramatic limestone peaks glowing pink at sunset, perfectly groomed snow, and that crisp Alpine air that seems to sharpen every turn. It’s a run that feels both powerful and elegant — much like the mountains that surround it.
Sylvester – The Long, Scenic Descent of Kronplatz
If you’re looking for a run that blends endurance, scenery, and perfectly groomed snow, Sylvester at Kronplatz is a must. Starting at the summit plateau of Kronplatz (2,275 meters), this sweeping red run descends for about 5 kilometers (over 3 miles) toward the village of Reischach, offering a sustained, flowing ride through forests and wide alpine slopes.
With a vertical drop of roughly 1,300 meters, it’s long enough to feel satisfying without being overly technical — ideal for confident intermediate and advanced skiers who love rhythm more than sheer steepness. What makes Sylvester special is its variety: broad carving sections, gentle changes in gradient, and stretches that wind through snow-covered pine woods, giving skiers the feeling of truly traveling down the mountain rather than simply skiing a slope. On clear days, the views stretch across the South Tyrolean valleys and toward the distant Dolomite peaks.
Olimpia – Classic Thrills in Cortina d’Ampezzo
For those seeking a run with history, charm, and a touch of adrenaline, Olimpia in Cortina d’Ampezzo is a true gem. Nestled in the heart of the Dolomites, this red-black slope offers roughly 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles) of descent, combining moderately steep sections with sweeping curves that make it exciting for advanced skiers while still approachable for confident intermediates. Its open vistas frame the surrounding peaks and forests, creating a run that feels both elegant and exhilarating.
All four of the runs we’ve described so far — La Gran Risa, Saslong, Sylvester, and Olimpia — are part of the same Dolomiti Superski network, giving skiers access to hundreds of kilometers of interconnected slopes across the Italian Alps with a single lift ticket. High-season full-day passes cost around €80–€90.
Ski Adventures in the Via Lattea Area
Kandahar – A Classic Black Run
Leaving the Dolomites behind, the Via Lattea (“Milky Way”) ski region opens up a new alpine adventure in northwestern Italy, spanning Piedmont and part of the Valle d’Aosta. One of its most challenging slopes is Kandahar, officially Kandahar Giovanni Alberto Agnelli, located above Sestriere in Piedmont, in the western Alps near the French border.
This steep, technical black piste features a challenging opening wall followed by fast, flowing terrain, making it a favorite for advanced skiers seeking precision and speed. The slope descends sharply from near the top of the lifts on Monte Alpette, alternating between steep sections and long, high-speed stretches, with stunning views of the surrounding western Alpine peaks along the way. Skipass during high season costs about €58–€60.
Panoramic Skiing in Livigno
Bellavista – Panoramic Skiing
Closer to the Swiss border, in the northern reaches of Lombardy, Livigno offers a different flavor of the Italian Alps — sunlit high-altitude runs, dependable snow conditions, and a cosmopolitan energy that sets it apart from both the Dolomites and the Via Lattea.
This scenic red run offers wide, perfectly groomed terrain ideal for intermediate skiers who enjoy long, confident carving turns without the intimidation of extreme gradients. Starting at over 2,400 meters, Bellavista benefits from Livigno’s famously reliable snow conditions. The descent unfolds with generous width and open sightlines, allowing skiers to settle into a steady rhythm while taking in sweeping views of the surrounding Alpine peaks. On clear winter days, with bright sun reflecting off the snow, it’s less about adrenaline and more about the pure pleasure of movement and landscape. A full-day lift pass in Livigno typically ranges between €55 and €65 in high season for adults, granting access to both sides of the valley and a wide variety of slopes suitable for all levels.
Snowshoeing – The Alps at a Slower Pace
If high-speed descents aren’t your idea of fun, there’s good news: you don’t need to ski like an Olympian to fall in love with the Italian Alps. In virtually every ski resort, snowshoeing is a popular and accessible alternative.
No adrenaline rush required. Just strap on a pair of snowshoes and step into a quieter world of snow-covered forests, open meadows, and panoramic viewpoints. The pace is slower, the sounds softer — just the rhythmic crunch of snow beneath your boots and the whisper of wind through the trees.
Many resorts offer guided snowshoe excursions led by certified environmental guides (Guida Ambientale Escursionistica) who don’t just show the way, but bring the landscape to life — explaining the geology of the peaks, the wildlife tracks in the snow, and the centuries-old traditions of mountain communities. It’s less about speed and more about connection: to nature, to history, and, eventually, to a well-deserved stop at a mountain hut.
Because in Italy, even the gentlest winter adventure ends with a reward — and often, something warm in your hands.
The Ritual of the Rifugio – Italy’s Mountain Living Room
Before we talk about what to drink, we need to talk about where. In the Italian Alps, the true heart of any winter day isn’t just the slope — it’s the rifugio.
A rifugio alpino is part shelter, part restaurant, part social hub. Originally built as simple mountain refuges for hikers and climbers, many today are cozy wooden lodges perched along ski runs or snowshoe trails. Inside, you’ll find long communal tables, the scent of wood smoke, ski boots lined up by the door, and a hum of conversation that blends Italian, German, Ladin — and increasingly, English.
It’s where you warm your hands after a freezing descent. Where helmets come off and cheeks slowly return to their natural color. Where strangers might share a table and end up exchanging travel tips — or grappa.
And once you’re seated, gloves drying by the stove, that’s when the real Alpine ritual begins.
Alpine Drinks to Warm the Body and Spirit
Forget energy drinks and energy bars. In the Italian mountains, warmth comes in far more comforting forms. Beyond an opulent mountain cuisine you can always find steaming tea, of course, and hot chocolate — thick, velvety, and almost spoonable, more pudding than beverage. But the real mountain classics are the spirited ones.
Parampampoli
Hails from the Valsugana region in Trentino, created in the 1950s by Giordano Purin at Rifugio Crucolo. This rustic, warming drink blends coffee, wine, grappa (or another spirit), honey, sugar, and natural spices, all gently heated until steaming. Traditionally served in small cups and often flambéed before drinking, it was originally designed to restore energy to woodcutters after long days in the snow — and it still carries that sense of Alpine theater and ritual.
Bombardino
Born in Livigno in the 1970s, it represents the sweeter, more indulgent side of après-ski. Made with zabaglione (egg yolk, sugar, and Marsala wine) mixed with brandy, rum, or whisky and often topped with a generous swirl of whipped cream, it’s creamy, comforting, and almost dessert-like — the perfect reward after skiing or wandering through winter landscapes.
In short, while parampampoli is a hot, smoky, almost theatrical ritual — like fire crackling in a mountain hut — the bombardino is a cozy, creamy indulgence, ideal for sipping slowly as you take in the snowy Alpine views.
Vin Brulé
The Italian version of what many parts of Europe call “mulled wine.” Its name literally means “burnt wine” in the French-influenced dialect of the Aosta Valley, and it refers to wine heated with sugar and aromatic spices — traditionally red wine, though white wine versions also exist.
The tradition goes back centuries: in ancient Rome, cooks flavored warmed wine with honey and spices, and during the Middle Ages similar spiced wine drinks were popular in colder regions of Europe. Over time, this practice spread throughout the continent: in Germany it’s Glühwein, in France vin chaud, in England mulled wine, and in Scandinavia glögg.
The basic preparation is simple: wine is warmed gently with sugar and spices such as cinnamon and cloves, and often enhanced with citrus peels, star anise, or other aromatics. Traditionally enjoyed throughout the winter, especially during the Christmas and holiday season, it’s a staple at holiday markets, village festivals, and mountain huts.
Grappa
No Alpine après-ski in Italy would be complete without grappa, the country’s iconic distilled spirit. Made from the leftover grape pomace after winemaking, grappa ranges from clear and fiery to aged and aromatic, depending on production and barrels used.
Served in small shot glasses, it’s meant to warm you from the inside out after a day in the snow. Unlike the creamy indulgence of a bombardino or the spiced comfort of vin brulé, grappa is direct, pure, and unapologetically strong — a true Italian mountain classic.
Even better, many rifugi offer a variety of flavored grappas, infused with local herbs, flowers, or fruit. These are often small-batch, artisanal productions, sometimes made right in the mountains themselves, adding a unique, local twist to the traditional shot.
A Few Days in the Snow: Your Italian Alpine Escape
If you’re visiting Italy, consider carving out a couple of days for the mountains — whether you’re craving the adrenaline rush of downhill skiing or the gentle serenity of snowshoeing through silent forests. After a morning (or afternoon) on the slopes, reward yourself with a cozy stop in a rifugio, sipping a warm drink, tasting local specialties, and soaking in the alpine atmosphere.
