Written by Chrissie McClatchie

Chrissie swapped Sydney for the Côte d'Azur over a decade ago when she landed a job in Nice selling fine wine to superyachts. Today, she’s a contributing author to Lonely Planet's Experience Provence and her writing has also appeared in publications such as BBC Travel, Condé Nast Traveler and Time. You can follow her on Instagram.

Escape the crowds and see an authentic side of Liguria

Liguria — the stretch of Italy that runs from the French border in the west to the edge of Tuscany in the east — is known first and foremost for the five perched seaside villages of Cinque Terre, as well as film-set favorite, Portofino. Venture inland from the coast, however, and you’ll find villages overflowing with charm, tradition and even a few quirky stories to tell. Below are five of the best.

Dolceacqua

Artist Claude Monet immortalised Dolceacqua’s centrepiece stone bridge in 1884 with his signature impressionist brushstrokes, a canvas now hung in Paris’ Marmottan - Monet Museum. Nearly 150 years have passed since then, but in many ways, the scene has hardly changed as visitors cross over the Nervia river (although today more a stream) and disappear into the shady laneways that lead towards the ruins of Doria castle atop the medieval village. Dolceacqua’s proximity to the Côte d’Azur means you’ll see lots of French number plates, particularly for weekend lunch in the restaurants on Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. For a casual pizza, you can’t go wrong at Il Borgo, although for a bit more pizzaz, Casa e Bottega next door hits the spot.

Drink

Rossesse di Dolceacqua, the local grape variety, thrives at high altitudes and the result is a light-coloured, fruity red wine that pairs perfectly with another local speciality, rabbit.

Apricale

Further inland from Dolceaqua, the postcard-pretty village of Apricale seemingly tumbles down a hillside, a cascade of terracotta red surrounded by thick brushstrokes of forest green. Once inside, the pedestrian alleyways offer respite from the sun even in the height of summer thanks to the thick stone buildings so typical of the region. All paths lead to Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II, the village square overlooked by the fortified Castello della Lucertola. Come hungry, as, set under a centuries-old vaulted ceiling, Da Baci’s menu of local specialities won’t disappoint.

Add on

For those unperturbed by the single-lane Ligurian roads and sheer mountain drops, continue past the village towards Bajardo, nestled 900 metres above sea level above the Nervia Valley, for views that have given the village the name “the Terrasse of the Alps.”

Seborga

From the approach, Seborga is just another very photogenic Ligurian hinterland village. Get a little closer, however, and you’ll start to notice some not-so-subtle differences: a sentry (usually empty) painted in light blue and white alongside a rather quaint signpost welcoming you to the Principality of Seborga. You’ve arrived at a hilltop micronation, population 300, that claims it is independent of Italy. Look out for Seborga’s German-born ruler, Princess Nina, in Piazza Martiri Patriotti, where she’s often found playing with her young daughter and other children of the village. Word of Seborga’s summer parties has travelled far and the festivities draw a big crowd.

Eat

Osteria del Coniglio is the pick of Seborga’s few restaurants for cosy homecooked meals and a small, but shady, terrace in the summer months.

Bussana Vecchia

Busman Vecchia. Image credit: Shutterstock

Just behind Sanremo, on the coastal side of the Autostrada dei Fiore highway, the small hilltop village of Bussana Vecchia stands tall, even after the earthquake that shook it to its core in 1887. For decades little more than a shell of its former self, a cohort of international artists slowly breathed life back into the hamlet when they arrived in the 1960s, as they renovated buildings and made their homes. Many have since left, their places taken by the next generation. Today, among the crumbling facades, there is plenty of life in Bussana Vecchia and it makes for a delightful - and safe - day trip. The church, with its collapsed roof, is closed to the public, although its frescoes are still visible from the exterior.

Eat

Just at the entrance to the village, barbequed meats are the speciality at La Casaccia, served up on big communal benches with sweeping views down to the Mediterranean Sea.

Sassello

Just 20 kilometres inland from the coast and the busy port town of Savona, Sassello straddles the border of Liguria and Piemonte. Although the terrain is flat, there’s a distinct alpine vibe with the Ligurian Alps rising up around the pretty, pastel-hued buildings. On weekends, you’ll be surrounded by the chatty hum of day-tripping motorcyclists sipping on a cool beer on a terrace along via Roma, the main thoroughfare. Most visitors gravitate towards Piazza Concezione the centre of the village. Get there early enough, and you may even nab a prime table at Palazzo Salsole, an excellent restaurant on the square popular for its local Ligurian and lower Piemontese dishes.